Adding Lanolin Back into a Project
When working with a fresh fleece, we often scour the wool to remove the lanolin and make the fleece easier to spin. Lanolin, sometimes called grease or wool wax, is a sticky substance sheep produce that is akin to human sebum, the stuff that makes your scalp feel greasy. Lanolin keeps the sheep's skin moisturized, helps to waterproof the fleece so that it doesn't mold in the rain and humidity, and is anti-microbial.
Lanolin is often added to lotion and moisturizing products. In fact, nursing mothers will use pure lanolin as a natural balm to soothe chapped nipples. There are times when you might even want to add lanolin back into your textiles.
LANOLIN….
is a great moisturizer and is fantastic for the skin
can help make outerwear rain resistant
can reduce fiber shedding and extend the life of a garment
can smooth down the microscopic wool scales and make coarser wools feel softer
Let’s lanolize some wool!
The Magic Ingredient
Soap is the magic ingredient here. It does two things. First, it helps to open the cuticle of the fiber. Wool alone can be somewhat hydrophobic, and soap helps to break the water tension. Second, it acts as a surfactant and emulsifying agent for the lanolin.
Soap molecules have a hydrophilic and a hydrophobic end. Water attracts the hydrophilic head of soap, while non-polar particles like oil, or in this case, lanolin, attract the hydrophobic end. Soap will encourage the lanolin to mix with the water rather than float on the surface and will help the lanolin coat the surface of your textile.
For this experiment you'll need:
Wool wash, laundry soap, or castile soap
Lanolin ( I use Now brand)
Wool fiber, fabric, or yarn
1. Begin by filling a basin with hot, but not boiling, water and an appropriate amount of wool wash or soap for the amount of wool you have.
2. Add about 1/2 tablespoon of lanolin per pound of wool and mix until the lanolin fully melts and turns the water a milky color.
3. Gently submerge your wool in the basin. Do not agitate the wool; agitation leads to felting and shrinking.
4. Soak your wool for 15-20 minutes.
5. Pat dry to remove excess water from the wool (never wring) and lay your wool flat to dry.
Lanolizing vs Waterproofing
Another option other than lanolizing a textile is to coat the textile with wax or linseed oil. However, you’ll find that they behave differently in practice.
Wax/Linseed Oil (Waterproofing)
Semi-permanent
Creates a stiffer fabric
Is fully waterproof
Lanolin
Washes out over time
Creates a soft, malleable fabric
Has moisturizing properties
Is breathable and water resistant
As always, there are times when one or the other is more desirable. I think lanolized textiles are perfect for hats, gloves, socks, and baby rompers. These items are worn next to the skin and benefit from the moisturizing properties of the lanolin as well as helping to repel water. However, if you need the textile to be fully waterproof, waxing or oiling the cloth is still a better option. This would include making reusable cling wrap or canvas tents. I like to think of lanolizing as the gentler cousin of oiling cloth.
Tips:
If the water fully clears, you may wish to repeat the lanolizing process, as the wool has fully absorbed the lanolin in the basin.
Likewise, after you have used and washed your textile several times, you may need to reapply lanolin.
